“There’s gold in those hills!” As I pulled into the parking lot for Camel’s Hump state park, it was evident that fall was upon us. Autumn is a magic time of year in the Northeast. The days get shorter quickly, so it’s important to squeeze every drop of life and light from the sun.
We knew in advance that there are two trails on the West side of Camel’s Hump to attain the Long Trail, the Forest City and the Burroughs. We saw no one parked at the lower elevation Forest City parking lot, but we did notice a few cars coming down from the Burroughs lot.
Despite our late arrival, we branded the higher elevation parkers as “cheaters” and hit the trail from Forest City. A huge rain storm earlier in the week had replenished the rivers and soaked the landscape bringing the lower elevation greenery back into full summer mode. It made traveling on the foot bridges over mini-gorges pretty fine.
The Bamforth Ridge shelter on the northern side of the peak was our first destination, and as evening approached, groups of descending hikers stopped to ask us if we were thru-hikers as well. In some cases, our packs for a 4-day trip were bigger than theirs as they’d figured out what to ditch by mile 70. Many wanted to talk about skiing: it seemed like this was a warm up for winter for many people.
Unlike the Appalachian Trail, which is almost impossible to thru-hike unless you’re young or retired, the thru-hikers we met were of all ages, just lucky people who were able to get a few weeks off of work. Flowing from Quebec to Massachusetts along the Green Mountain spine, the Long Trail’s 272 miles are an epic trip that’s within reach.
On this day the warm sunset and scenery compelled us to the summit. One of the best parts of being on this section of trail are the never-ending views of Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks to the west. The leaves were turning as we gained vert, and soon we were in awe of the immense valleys. We faced a lot of wind and on the treeless summit, wind speeds approached 40 mph or more. However, we had all prepared an extra layer before leaving the canopy, a wise habit I learned from ski touring years ago.
The Camel’s Hump summit was both beautiful and intimidating. We stood in the face of the wind, miles from shelter, despite the imminent sunset. We were tremendously late, but we had an epic sunset to ourselves. It was a unique experience for me as I normally plan to be done with hiking long before dark. I honestly had no idea what I was missing.
Unfortunately, there was a price for the spectacle; descending the steep flank by headlamp was difficult. I couldn’t help but to surmise that in winter, with snow cover, it would have been easier to follow the trail down. After some searching, we found a prime camping spot on the shoulder in a flat ledge where we could cook and bivy up.
After a terrific morning under the stars, I called a Vermont friend with a request for a car assist. Bolton Valley is known for some of the tamer in-bounds skiing in Northern Vermont, but the Bolton Mountain presents a goliath obstacle. I wanted to get ahead of it so our party could enjoy traversing the Nebraska Notch and Mt Mansfield farther to the north.
It’s always a great feeling hiking, being outside and getting exercise. Views and like-minded company kick things up a notch. By throwing the our schedule and shelters to the wind, I got something even greater from the adventure. And I don’t think it’d be too much to call it life or freedom.
Nice pics. Someday i’ll do that hike. Thanks.
Cool photography. Nice to see unique views in a hiking TR.
I agree: really fun pics, and TR.
I love the idea of being on a mountaintop at sunset or sunrise. The only time I actually did it was ski touring in Colorado. We got up two hours before dawn to skin up a “lower altitude” peak. Watching the sun touch the 14ers was exciting.
The sunset thing is a bit more problematic. I’m thinking of packing a bivy sack up to the cliffs near our cabin and spend the night. Do it after dinner, so, no gear, just a sleeping bag, water and a headlamp. That’d be the bomb in winter, on skis.
I Hiked Camel’s Hump in college, along with Mansfield and Mt Washington.
I will say Camel’s was by far my favorite of the three, for the simple reason the top is unspoiled.
Nothing like a 3 hour climb to the top of Mt Washington, only to find a parking lot full of cars and loud families running around. Ditto for Mansfield (and I imagine, Whiteface, though I have never climbed it).
There is something spectacular about the open rock cliffs atop Camel’s Hump, and the fields of hardscrabble and heather, and the fact that everyone got there by their own foot power.
It makes for a true cameraderie with other hikers, and with nature.
Great TR, by the way.
Nice report and nice pics. The only unspoiled 4000 summit in VT without a man made structure.
My wife and I hiked it a couple times when our son was attending UVM, once in September another in February, 10 days after the famous Valentine’s Day blizzard of 2007. Both hikes were remarkable.
Here’s a pic from the winter hike.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13369541@N00/8057614811/lightbox/