HVAC: What's best for cold climates?

So 2 splits, 2 ducted and maybe 48K BTU - Same as my new system. I can tell ya what I paid but I have a feeling it has no bearing on what you will pay. Mine had tight spaces and required a scissor truck to get to the 3rd floor. Plus Jersey vs ADK

It's all labor - materials are like 30% of the actual cost
 
Not going to finish the basement. Maybe some minimal, like tile. But not living space, just utilities, maybe a freezer, some workspace. Woodstove. Sounding kinda man-cavish now that I say it out loud.
 
So 2 splits, 2 ducted and maybe 48K BTU - Same as my new system. I can tell ya what I paid but I have a feeling it has no bearing on what you will pay. Mine had tight spaces and required a scissor truck to get to the 3rd floor. Plus Jersey vs ADK

It's all labor - materials are like 30% of the actual cost

Fujitsu mini duct units have been tough to come by for the last two years.

They’re a nice way to zone areas and really quiet you can’t tell they’re running.
 
I've been ready about mixing under floor radiant with baseboards like the Runtals that @sig is using. I like the idea of heat from the floors in the bathrooms and kitchen where wall space is at a premium.

It's more complicated than stringing them together inline because the baseboards require much hotter water than the underfloor. I suppose you could have two separate systems?

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of mixing the two types of hydronics?
 
I've been ready about mixing under floor radiant with baseboards like the Runtals that @sig is using. I like the idea of heat from the floors in the bathrooms and kitchen where wall space is at a premium.

It's more complicated than stringing them together inline because the baseboards require much hotter water than the underfloor. I suppose you could have two separate systems?

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of mixing the two types of hydronics?

If you have high ceilings you’ll need additional heat than the floor will provide especially if you have wood floor which has a floor temperature limit of 80°
Tile will be a better choice in those areas ( preferably with a rough surface) as acoustics can be echoey.

With propane mixing baseboards and radiant is no big deal it just involves a few more circulators and mixing valves to control floor temperatures. Easy peezy
 
If you have high ceilings you’ll need additional heat than the floor will provide especially if you have wood floor which has a floor temperature limit of 80°
Tile will be a better choice in those areas ( preferably with a rough surface) as acoustics can be echoey.

With propane mixing baseboards and radiant is no big deal it just involves a few more circulators and mixing valves to control floor temperatures. Easy peezy
We are considering heat pump with propane backup.

Would want to do tile in kitchen and bathrooms where the radiant is in the floor. It seems like infloor radiant under wood has to be done just right.

It's my understanding that both baseboards and infloor are radiant.
 
We put these under the tile when we redid the bathroom and they work great:


With the ducted heat pumps you can put vents in the floor like you would in forced air to ensure the heat is coming from the lowest possible points. The question is how many can you do, both from a floor layout, and installation/ductwork layout
 
It's my understanding that both baseboards and infloor are radiant.

Baseboard is designed to heat air. Radiant heats objects through heat waves. The heat from baseboard requires very hot water. 150-180°
Radiant uses 80-120° roughly.

Where more heat is required for radiant “Heat transfer plates “ are fastened underneath the subfloor and the tubing is clipped in.


Any hot water heat source can be used. Although it will be separated from a minisplit.
I don’t know of any way to integrate the two. One or the other could be set a few degrees apart as backup.

There are air to water heat pumps where you can use outside air to heat water but I’m not sure they would work in your climate.
 
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