Tell Me What You Know about Siding

Harvey said:
Probably? Would it work? I defer to the experts.

How do you add insulation to the outside of the building without he mice chewing it?

Looks like the Zip System has R value.

@Joneski73 or @Sbob do you use the 1" or 1 1/2" zip?

Also how do you prevent over driving the nails?

I'd love it if my house was built with hammers but my guess is no contractor would go for that.
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Worked on my apartment house. I didn't measure r value I just insulated everything I did.
The snap together wrapping. Can't you get that in one inch? Then you have your thermal break and r value and will only pay once putting it on.
 
Tjf1967 said:
I'll open the window
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If your ventilation strategy is open the windows when it’s cold outside, there’s no point in spending a lot on insulation or even making the house tight.

If you really want a low energy house, spend your money on air barriers, insulation, good windows, air source heat pumps and heat recovery ventilation. Skip expensive stuff like ground source heat pumps and solar, unless you can find some dumb government program to subsidize it.

mm
 
Last edited:
It seems likely we are going with the LP Smartside.

Question for anyone who has used it.

The siding comes primed. I believe we will also get our siding prepainted.

You are supposed to prime (and paint?) the cuts on the siding. How does that work? You usually cut a board right before you nail it up right? Can someone man the brush, and hit the cuts with primer and touch it up after it's up? Ideally how does/should that work?

Priming the Siding​

To protect the product and to save you time, the front and edge surfaces of LP SmartSide siding and trim are primed at the factory. Sometimes as the products are cut on the jobsite, it leaves the wood substrate exposed. According to the terms of LP’s application instructions, all exposed edges of LP® SmartSide® siding and trim must be primed and painted with approved paint to protect the siding substrate. The back side is better left unpainted. Therefore, do not prime the back side of the siding or trim. While back priming has proven to be useful to control tannin staining with some types of solid wood siding, trim and some composite sidings, LP SmartSide products are not intended to be back primed.
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not sure about the LP but with commercial Hardie applications the installer comes back with Hardie color matched paint to hit all the *exposed* ends

and color matched caulk
 
My question is more about how do you keep the job moving along? Can you prime the end and nail it up wet?
 
Harvey said:
My question is more about how do you keep the job moving along? Can you prime the end and nail it up wet?
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I don’t see why not. Take a scrap of the siding or a piece of cardboard to cover the painted face, then spray the end cut with Kilz primer.
 
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