Surfs Up

[Temp6]

Some of us are visual learners Harvey it’s ok.

In any case I’ve certainly surfed more than skied this January but that’s about to change finally.

 

[JTG]

@D.B. Cooper @JTG It is the period of the swell otherwise known as interval.

Thanks for the proper explanation! I’m aware of the factors in play, but still figuring out how they all interact…….and getting a better understanding of it all will help me to better read/understand the surf reports (i.e. what to really look for).

Your explanation helps me (I think) understand another phenomena I’m trying to get a proper handle on, and that’s wave energy. Sometimes there can be decent looking waves (a 2 foot wave height on the east coast) that surf really well, whereas other times the same size waves just kind of topple over and piddle out, with no energy to carry a ride. I’m going to go on a limb (based on your explanation) and say that interval is what makes the difference in those differing 2 foot waves. The longer the interval the more water, and therefor energy, moving in the wave, and the better the ride.

Damn, now I want to surf again. I did get a decent session in on the Cape on New Year’s day. We have to make a trip up to Chatham in the next few weeks to pick up a piece of furniture, so that’s good!

 

[Temp6]

@JTG Yes you’re 100% right. The energy and push in a wave is more closely related to interval/period (synonyms) but swell height still matters in determining how a wave feels the bottom and is forced to break. Bathymetry and shape of the seafloor is your next lesson.

 

[gorgonzola]

most amazing wave to me is Teahupoo, so heavy. There's basically no trough behind it, the water just stacks up to the crest of the wave. Effin' wall of water

Might as well add a diagram

An old buddy in Puerto Rico this week for stoke!

 

[gorgonzola]

While were on the subject of waves a buddy told me abut this net to Big Snow

Wave Types - Skudin Surf at American Dream

Check out our list of available wave types! We have settings perfect for beginners, intermediates, advanced, and experts.

skudinsurfamericandream.com

 

[Temp6]

While were on the subject of waves a buddy told me abut this net to Big Snow

Wave Types - Skudin Surf at American Dream

Check out our list of available wave types! We have settings perfect for beginners, intermediates, advanced, and experts.

skudinsurfamericandream.com

I wish that wave wasn’t so tiny. I’ve heard it’s fun but not quite up to the scale as some of the other wavepools that have popped up in recent years around the country and world.

 

[gorgonzola]

I think I’ve posted about Kai Lenny in this thread before but the best waterman can float snow in AK too