Ski Waxing

[Peter Minde]

CH3 is super hard wax for very cold conditions. I use it as an additive to other waxes as it holds up really well on abrasive snow. The powder form makes it way easier to iron than the drips you get with CH4.

This is quite a haul. Can't fathom why they sold this for so little.

Super hard wax; FYI in that time "CH" was Swiss's designation for non fluorinated waxes.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

I've recently learned this is an iron holder.
View attachment 19473

Yeah, clamp that to the bench. The bottom edge of the iron goes in the notch where your index finger is.

View attachment 19474

Sidewall planer. Use that when the file doesn't have much resistance against it. The ski would be on its side in the vice. There should be a dial to adjust the depth. Have a look, adjust, peel some sidewall, re-adjust if necessary.

View attachment 19475

Looks like a base bevel guide. There should be a number as to what degree it bevels. With the ski flat on the vice, draw from top to bottom. I like to use a Sharpie to mark the edge before base filing. That way you can tell when base filing is done. I.e. when the marker has disappeared. Draw in short strokes, like less than a foot with each pass. Overlap your passes. You should clean the file after 2-3 strokes with the file. I use a paint brush from the dollar store or, if needed a file brush.

View attachment 19476

Not sure on this one. It may be for stripping wax of the edges after you're done waxing.

View attachment 19477

Side bevel guides. The top one is a set bevel, the lower one probably has pieces of plastic that clip in to adjust the bevel, i.e. to get 87, 88 or 89 degrees. I set mine to 3 degree side (or 87 degrees, it depends how you measure) and 1 degree base bevel. I ski on race skis. I think most recreational skis are 2 degrees side/1 degree base.
These guides would have clamps to adhere the file to the guide. You want to put the file where the Swix logo is, and clamp it. I usually put the files on a very slight diagonal as that gets more resistance. Probably best to use a shorter file, if you have one, for side filing.

Why?

 

[D.B. Cooper]

This is the stuff that looks like salt. How in the hell is that enough wax for even one ski?
I've recently learned this is an iron holder.
The Artec brushes. The cd is an Artec tutorial.
3 Different Swix roto brushes.

I'm guessing you have about $600 worth of gear there, if you were to buy new. Thus my larceny comment earlier.

 

[dubstar]

"Not sure on this one. It may be for stripping wax of the edges after you're done waxing"

That's a sharpener for plastic wax scrapers.

 

[Milo Maltbie]

The black thing is a Skiman sidewall planer.

I gave my sidewall planer away. It was a pleasure to use when it was adjusted correctly, but it was a PITA to adjust, and I had to re-adjust for every different pair of skis. A panzer works fine for that, either free hand or in a 7 degree file guide. Otherwise I never use a panzer unless the edges are really damaged.

I don't use gloves myself, but most of the tuning advice sites recommend using them.

Thoe gloves with rubber dots are more trouble than they're worth. I cut my knuckle to the bone a couple of years ago scraping wax. Now I use level 5 cut resistant gloves for any operation where I need to apply force along the length of the ski. That's already saved me at least one trip to the ER this year.

mm

 

[Milo Maltbie]

Looks like a base bevel guide. There should be a number as to what degree it bevels. With the ski flat on the vice, draw from top to bottom. I like to use a Sharpie to mark the edge before base filing.

I never use a file on the base edge. I will use a fine stone in a file guide, or a coarse stone to work down damage, but a file will make the bases round pretty quickly. Flattening the base and setting the base edge are beyond my skill set. When the base needs attention they go to the shop for a base grind. YMMV.

Panzer file for side filing. Use this with rough edges. If that's the case (rough edges), start with a rough diamond stone, 100 or 200 grit. Remove burrs, panzer file a few times, then go to a regular file. Panzer files can take off a lot of material, so be careful.

I almost never use a panzer on the edges. I use coarse stone on the side edge almost every day, or occasionally a smooth file if I neglected it for a while. Now I use a Swix EVO grinder almost exclusively, with either fine of medium wheels.

mm.

 

[sibhusky]

Super hard wax; FYI in that time "CH" was Swiss's designation for non fluorinated waxes.

Yes, I didn't say it was fluoro. I've got this stuff and use it.

 

[jt10000]

That yellow Toko scraper sharpener is not a great tool - it's hard to avoid slowly making your scraper concave if you use it a lot and are not very intentional. The red Swix one is much easier to us.

 

[Peter Minde]

That yellow Toko scraper sharpener is not a great tool - it's hard to avoid slowly making your scraper concave if you use it a lot and are not very intentional. The red Swix one is much easier to us.

I've got the red Swix scraper. Most useful.