Les 3 Vallees, France: Jan 2022

Face4Me

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Sep 12, 2020
A Bucket List Item Completed

For as long as I can remember, I've wanted to ski in Europe. The opportunity finally presented itself this past September. A friend from work runs a ski club out of New York City. They had a trip to Val Thorens, France planned for late January of 2022. This was a trip the club had booked for March of 2020, but that was before COVID-19. That trip ended up being postponed, and because a number of the original people who had booked the trip had backed out, there were spots available. My friend decided to go on the trip, and so, I booked it too.

With the Omicron surge in full-form, there were a lot of concerns and hurdles to overcome with regard to vaccinations, COVID testing and other red tape. With all that taken care of, it was finally departure day. We had a flight booked from Newark to Dulles, and then from Dulles to Geneva, with a bus ride from there to Val Thorens. We boarded the plane to Dulles … It was time to go … maybe not! Shortly after we boarded the plane, the pilot informed us of a mechanical issue. Long story short … we would not be able to make our connection in Dulles to Geneva.

More than 4 hours later, all 27 of us were rebooked onto other flights into Madrid, Lisbon, Frankfurt & Zurich, and then onto Geneva. We joked that it was like the Amazing Race. I was part of Team Lisbon.

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When all was said and done, I checked into my hotel in Val Thorens 28 hours after arriving at Newark Airport … but ... no luggage, skis or ski boots. The good news was that our bags were going to be coming in the next morning on our original flight from Dulles, just one day later.

Our hotel was located in Val Thorens. It was built in 1971 and was one of the original hotels built in this valley. It was located to the right of the top of the carpet lift pictured in the photos below. We were able to walk out of the hotel, put our skis on, and moments later be on a lift going in almost any direction within a 270 degree arc the ski area forms around the resort center.

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Due to our travel delay, we lost our first day of skiing, so we spent the day walking around the village, and then went back for a few drinks on the deck outside our hotel, relaxing in the sun and enjoying the beautiful views of the mountain.

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Les 3 Vallees is billed as the world's largest ski area and it's hard to imagine that anything could be larger. It's made up of three “primary” areas, and two smaller ones. The primary areas are Val Thorens, Meribel and Courchevel. The two smaller areas are Les Menuires and Orelle. They are all interconnected by a lift system that is hard to believe.

There are all types of lifts … t-bars, platters, carpet conveyors, quads, six packs, 8 - 10 person gondolas, 30 - 50 person gondolas and full sized trams. There are so many lifts that they often criss-cross each other, fly over the rooftops of hotels and apartment buildings and run through the middle of the villages. The efficiency of some of the loading areas is incredible … multiple load points at the base for some of the six-packs, non-stop loading of gondolas in enclosed buildings (one even had an escalator you had to ride up to get to the loading area). All of this for a daily cost of $75 US for a five day pass.

Unfortunately, there hadn't been any new snow in quite a while, so essentially, we were limited to the groomed trails, or as they say in Europe … on piste. Almost everything that was not groomed was extremely “crunchy”, and not worth trying. There were a few exceptions here and there, but for the most part, we stayed on the trails.

It's impossible to express in words, or even in photos, the incredible beauty in these mountains. As we took each lift up, I was completely awestruck by the views and the vastness of the terrain laid out before us. Of course I would have preferred there to be a foot of fresh powder, but quite frankly, it just didn't matter. We had incredibly beautiful blue skies & sunshine, and I was more than satisfied to just enjoy the moment.

There were a couple of people in the group who felt compelled to whine and complain that the skiing was too easy, and the conditions were terrible, but these are the kind of people who would probably never be happy with anything, and just can't recognize how lucky they are to have the opportunity to be in a place like this.

I've never seen “cruisers” like this anywhere. The trails went on forever, and they were so much fun to just rip down. It wasn't about how much vertical we skied, or mileage, or anything else … it was just about enjoying the moments as they presented themselves. The entire point of a trip like this was to just enjoy it, and that's what we did.
 
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Ski Day One - January 24 - Val Thorens / Orelle

We spent our first day “close to home”, skiing Val Thorens and Orelle, a much smaller area one valley over from Val Thorens. I was with a small group of five, including my friend from work, a friend of his from the club and another couple. This wasn't the most advanced group of skiers, but given the conditions we had, it didn't matter.


We had planned to stop for lunch, but somehow, we never got around to it. We had become “peak baggers” for the day, trying to get to to the top of each lift to check out the views from each vantage point. We were not disappointed.

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We worked from left to right as you looked at the mountain from “The Centre”, taking a lift up, admiring the view, and then skiing down to the next lift over. Eventually, we had made our way over to the top of the ridge that separated Val Thorens from Orelle. We took a couple of runs and admired the views in Orelle, and then it was time to return to Val Thorens.

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It took us three attempts to find the right route to get back to our hotel without taking the “carpet of shame”. None of us wanted to ride the carpet from “The Centre” back up to our hotel. There was a route through the village that would pass right by the hotel, and we were bound and determined to find it! When we finally got there, it was time to take the boots off, and then settle back for an apres ski drink in the village while admiring the views.

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Ski Day Two - January 25 - Meribel

Our plan for day two was to ski Meribel. Our group size had increased to twelve. We weren't the most evenly matched skiers, but it didn't matter. No one in the group was in a hurry, and being limited to the groomed trails just meant waiting at the bottom for the rest of the group to catch up.

After two lift rides, we were at the top of the ridge separating Val Thorens from Meribel. The views continued to impress.

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Since it was early in the day, there were a lot of skiers and riders who were out trying to transit from Val Thorens to Meribel and Courcheval. We all started down a 2.5 mile cruiser to get to the lifts that would enable us to access the rest of Meribel. There were so many people on the trail, that we decided to call the run I-95 during rush hour.

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We took several runs and then rode a gondola to the ridge separating Meribel from Courcheval. It was around 11:45, and there was a nice restaurant with some outstanding views on the top of the ridge. We decided that even though it was a little early, we would do a lunch stop. It turned out to be a really good decision!

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After lunch, we took a bunch of runs in Meribel and then it was time to return to Val Thorens. This time, we had no trouble finding our way back to our hotel. It was then time to go back to the deck, enjoy an apres ski drink and watch the sun set behind the mountains.

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On Tuesdays and Thursdays, local vendors line the main street in town. It all looked and smelled so good!

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Ski Day Three - January 26 - Courcheval

I woke up Wednesday morning and looked out the window of my hotel room. The dawn light on the mountain was too good to let go without a photo.

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Our plan for the day was to make our way over to Courcheval. We headed out a little earlier than the prior two days, to give us as much time as possible to get to Courcheval, take some runs, and then make our way back to Val Thorens. The penalty for not making it back in time would be a 200 Euro taxi fare!!! We took I-95 back into Meribel, and then transited across as quickly as possible until we passed over the ridge into Courcheval.

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Once again, we were greeted by some amazing views, cruisers groomed to perfection and blue skies and sunshine.

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After taking several runs, we decided that it was time to make our way back towards Meribel. Unfortunately, we had traversed across to the furthest point in Courcheval from Val Thorens. When we got to the bottom, we discovered that the lift we needed to start making our way back was down due to a mechanical problem. This meant we had to take a platter lift to get back in the direction we needed to go. It was an unbelievably long ride, that went up a couple of very steep climbs and travelled across an open trail. As skiers whizzed past, I felt like a sitting duck!

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As we made our way back into Meribel, there were a number of people in our group who wanted to stop at La Folie Douce in Meribel. La Folie Douce is a chain of apres ski clubs located at a number of resorts in France. These clubs are actually located ON the mountain, not at the base area! We had tried to get into the Val Thorens location two days earlier, but the line to get in was too long. We had been told that the Meribel location was actually better, and as it turned out, there was no line to get in when we arrived. It was definitely different!!!

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We had a couple of drinks, enjoyed the show, and then made our way back to Val Thorens.
 
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Ski Day Four - January 27 - Val Thorens / Meribel

For our fourth day, we bounced around between Val Thorens and Meribel, and then back to Val Thorens for a late lunch on the mountain.

In Meribel, we rode the gondola to the top of Mont Vallons. The views from the top of this peak were some of the best we had seen. Mont Blanc was visible to the Northeast and Glacier du Borgne to the South.

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There were two awesome runs down from the peak, one on each side of the mountain. These were long, steep runs that wound their way down the mountain. We got down to the bottom and then decided to make our way back over to Val Thorens for a late lunch. We had been told that there was a restaurant at the top of the Les 2 Lacs lift that was very good, so we decided to give it a try. It was pretty good, though not quite as good as the lunch we had two days earlier.

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Ski Day Five - January 28 - Val Thorens / Orelle / Les Menuires / Meribel

For our final ski day, we spent a little time in Val Thorens and then took a run in Orelle. After that, we made our way to the fifth valley, Les Menuires.

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After a couple of runs over there, we went back over to Meribel and took two more runs on Mont Vallons, one on each of the two trails from that peak.

With that, our trip was coming to an end. We made our way back over to Val Thorens for our last run back to our hotel.

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My first ski trip to Europe turned out to be everything I had expected. While we didn't have the best conditions, we did have beautiful weather, and fully embraced the European ski culture.

Of the five areas we skied at, we enjoyed Meribel the most. We found the best conditions and liked the layout of the trails and lifts there the most. Our least favorite was Courcheval.

I had a great time and would definitely love to go back.
 
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Sweet trip!
 
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