Considering Alternatives for a New House

[Tjf1967]

This is me too. I haven't looked into alternatives, but isn't the upfront money considerably more than "normal" HVAC?

35 to 55k.

 

[Tjf1967]

I would go with the woods boiler up there with electric back up

 

[Campgottagopee]

35 to 55k.

F that

 

[Harvey]

They know how cheap you are most likely... And I don't mean that to be derogatory.

I'm 99% sure that this was not about my cost tolerance but that certain parts of the country were better for GT than others.

Cost matters to me, but it is not the only reason I want to do this.

Someone ( @Ripitz ?) mentioned 16 inch walls wow. (I was told code is now using 2x6 for framing).

Not sure how legit this is but my builder said that at some point if you're house it too tight it becomes an issue and you have to open windows or build in some kind of insulation.

 

[Ripitz]

I'm 99% sure that this was not about my cost tolerance but that certain parts of the country were better for GT than others.

Cost matters to me, but it is not the only reason I want to do this.

Someone ( @Ripitz ?) mentioned 16 inch walls wow. (I was told code is now using 2x6 for framing).

Not sure how legit this is but my builder said that at some point if you're house it too tight it becomes an issue and you have to open windows or build in some kind of insulation.

In order to get the walls that thick, for the best R value, the walls are double studded. Staggering the studs is even better. Check out Larsen trusses to get an idea of what it’s about. Again, it adds to the construction cost but the benefit is much lower energy costs and a better performing house. It takes less to heat and cool but it also stays warmer and cooler for longer and you don’t have temperature fluctuations. The house is much more comfortable as a result. Outside air exchange is crucial when making a house super tight. Also being careful to stay away from VOCs, plastic, vinyl, plywood, carpet, stain guards and other sources of forever chemicals is imperative.

 

[Sbob]

They are using a “Pump and dump” system, Not to be confused with stocks lol.
They run water from a well and run it through a heat exchanger and dump it back into the ground. My area has hard water and our systems use a loop system that has antifreeze in it.
If your water is of good quality then you should consider that system. They operate more efficiently because the water doesn’t loose any energy by being recirculated .

You need about 3 gallons per minute per ton of heating/ cooling.

 

[Milo Maltbie]

Stick framing is probably not the optimum way to get an energy efficient house. Double framing helps, but it's costly and your still gonna put thousands of holes in the vapor barrier. A 16 inch thick stick wall is just nuts. IT's more about the details: corners, window flashing and other places where different materials meet. Good luck getting anyone to do that stuff right when no one is watching.
The better answer for insulation is rigid insulation on the outside,or even better, pre-cut structural insulation panels. One advantage of structural panels is that it doesn't depend on carpenter skills, which I'm thinking are hard to find in the Daks.
Adequate ventilation has been a problem ever since codes started requiring less air infiltration. The best solution is a tight house with hear exchanger ventiation on the kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans. Or just leave windows open.
The most comfortable HVAC system warm water circulating in the floor, an AC system with vents near the ceiling, a separate air exchange system controlled by humidity and a well ventilated attic. I knew a guy who retro-fitted a 100 year old house with all that, along with insulation on the outside of the walls, but even he admitted all that was nuts. He was pretty bitter about it when his wife threw him out.
The green answer is structural insulated panel walls, HVAC by a ground source heat pump, heat exchanger vetilators, and heat pump hot water and laundry drier. An electric induction kitchen stove is more efficent and works better than anything else too.
I think if I were building in the north country I'd skip the central AC. If your house is too comfortable in the summer you end up spending too much time indoors. I could always add a window unit later if I needed it.

mm

 

[Sbob]

F that

Think of it as an investment. If you save $600-$1,000 a year on your heating and cooling and you spend an additional $20k . There are tax credits as well. Pretty good return on your money, tax free and energy costs are only going to go up.

 

[Campgottagopee]

Think of it as an investment. If you save $600-$1,000 a year on your heating and cooling and you spend an additional $20k . There are tax credits as well. Pretty good return on your money, tax free and energy costs are only going to go up.

I hear ya
It wouldn't be for me
I'm sticking with the outdoor wood boiler (11K) and free firewood. Get my money back way quicker.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Not sure how legit this is but my builder said that at some point if you're house it too tight it becomes an issue and you have to open windows or build in some kind of insulation.

Have you thought about horizontal geothermal? That is, dig a trench rather than a well. It would probably take an acre+. I think it would require space in addition to a septic system weeping bed, i.e. can't be doubled up. Some geothermal systems go into bodies of water.

Too air tight does mean condensation on the windows. Not good. Plus it would look dumb having a 12" wall but a casement window cranked open.

One heat control strategy could be having a pergola over a deck or patio with some grape vines on the pergola. Think Harvey Vineyards.