The bcXCD Thread

I’m thinking of treating myself to some Fischer S-Bound 112s. Anybody have any experience with them?
I’m viewing them as a sort of poor man’s Charger- mainly to be used in Harriman on hiking trails and woods roads and such. Haven’t decided on bindings. I’d like to put on something I already have but that means choosing between very light NNN BC and full on AT with relatively light old AT boots
Not the 112s but I’ve been on the 98s and really liked them. The dimensions of the 112s are nearly identical with my Madshus Annums which are my go to pasture and shwacker skis. I would not put AT bindings on them. I think NNNBC is the way to go if those are your two choices. Get the manual magnums not the autos. The autos are a pain and more prone to icing. Curious to know what boots you have. The sturdier the better for driving those skis. A floppy XC boot is not gonna cut it.
 
I will have to look to tell you the specific model but they are very lightweight Alpinas and the NNN BC bindings I have are pretty light too. I was trying not to buy a whole new setup but I guess I need to think about that further now
 
I will have to look to tell you the specific model but they are very lightweight Alpinas and the NNN BC bindings I have are pretty light too. I was trying not to buy a whole new setup but I guess I need to think about that further now
What is your foot size?
 
I’m thinking of treating myself to some Fischer S-Bound 112s. Anybody have any experience with them?
I’m viewing them as a sort of poor man’s Charger- mainly to be used in Harriman on hiking trails and woods roads and such. Haven’t decided on bindings. I’d like to put on something I already have but that means choosing between very light NNN BC and full on AT with relatively light old AT boots
My goal this offseason was to upgrade my old XCd (non-metal edge) skis and flimsy ski-swap boots with a setup to better handle the conditions similar to what you mentioned. I’ve only read good things about the Fischers (both the 98s and 112s). That said, I ended up going for the less-expensive Madshus Panorama M68s. While it sure made me laugh trying to ski on the gentlest of slopes through trees on firm snow with non-metal edge cross-country skis, I cannot wait to have metal edges!!

Along with the skis, I purchased Alpina Alaska boots and Magnum NNN-BC bindings. Side note: thanks Ripitz (and other on this blog) for an older discussion regarding the negatives of the automatic NNN-BC bindings.

Question for anyone with Alpina Alaska (or similar leather boots): Any advice on how to treat/waterproof/care for the boots? I want to take as good care of them as possible!
 
My skis are old and clapped out, so I don't know how this review might relate to Fisher's more modern offering(s). With that caveat, I bought my skis from my (now defunct) local shop in 2015, no EZ-skin attachment, manufactured in Ukraine. Their factory then burned down and their country of origin was (re)invaded, In the tumult that followed I think the Chinese Fischers that were made for a year or two were problematic, with poor build quality (hit up Telemarktalk for details). I shudder to think what this poor build quality might entail, since mine had the kick zone delaminating within a few years and the edges breaking in the last few years. I was going to consign them to the dumpster, but thanks to Tuco over at tgr who says "fix your own f'ing skis" and then shows/tells you how to do it and Alpinord from the same forum (AKA Slidewright in Durango--recommended--cool dude) I cobbed them back together and have continued to ski them, gently, while peeling off a new segment of edge yearly. The edge material that Slidewright provided is almost 2x the thickness of the original edge and far more durable.

As for the skis, they climb great and turn greater but they chatter violently on hardpack--in soft snow they are a dream. I ski the 179's and I'm a lot punier than you, Mr Brown. I would recommend a longer ski for you if you go with this (or similar) product. I've never skied anything but 3 pin but would suspect the bindings you have to be underfit or overkill for the job. I have read @Brownski and @Low Angle Life reports on Harriman with interest and would love to ski there someday. These skis won't fit in nordic tracks and don't track particularly well (track or no track} for kick and glide, but for running up and down 200-300 ft hills I think they work very well--that is what I use them for.

@Endoftheline is right, this first part of November was quite good for snow quality, here is a pic of my Sbounds, or at least their tips, about to get busy--NELSAPing at the local bump.
IMG_5097.JPG


And here is a shot of the repaired edge (one of--both skis have been repaired like this) on my skis from the day I met Peter at Pisgah last year. My finger indicates my next repair job--note how thin the factory edge is (above).
IMG_4241.JPG

From all accounts (Ripitz can comment here and perhaps some others) Voile are better all round and Madshus cheaper (but climb less well than the other two). I also believe you owned (and sold) a very similar setup about 5(10?) years ago (if memory serves?) You could have just kept the Panoramas/Annums(?) with the hardwires (I would have liked to buy that setup) that you had back then. Happy shopping.

And while I/we are busy c***ing up the xcd thread let me say that of the 3 hills and adjacent trails I monitor (search term: Menucool McMenu if you want to try) only Titus maintained a base through the Thanksgiving warmup. While both Dry Hill and Snow Ridge have snow now do not be deceived, they were both grass on Thanksgiving. For nordic/bc in the NW ADK I would recommend the area of Wanakena/Star Lake. I believe they too retained a bit of base. Happy skiing! @Harvey move this/cut this if the OCD tells you too!
 
9- 9.5
26.5- 27
Depending on shoe manufacturer
My left foot is 9.5 and my right foot is 9. The guy at the ski shop said it’s actually quite common for people to have different size feet but I wonder if he was just trying to help me not feel like a freak. I was wondering why I developed blisters on my right heel when running all these years. Now I know why and can adjust accordingly with lacing. Interestingly enough for people with different sizes Keen footwear will sell you a second pair of shoes for 50% off.

Anyway, I have a pair of Fischer BC5s that are too big for me. Would probably work for someone with a 10-10.5 foot. They have the same sole as the Alaskas but the upper is not as beefy. They work fine for me when flat touring with a bigger sock but are available for someone in need.
 
Question for anyone with Alpina Alaska (or similar leather boots): Any advice on how to treat/waterproof/care for the boots? I want to take as good care of them as possible!
The Alaskas have a waterproof / breathable membrane that work very well. I’ve never had my feet get wet from the outside or the inside for that matter. I use a gaitor when the snow is super deep. I haven’t treated them yet but plan on doing it for this season. I think the two best options are Sno Seal or Nikwax, with Nikwax being preferred. I’ll be doing it mostly to protect the leather from drying out. Sno Seal is applied when warm and dry but with Nikwax you wet and soak the boot before the application. Sno Seal is a wax and despite its name Nikwax is not. My understanding is that it is more of a moisturizing conditioner that is water repellent. I am very familiar with the Sno Seal application and have used it for years on different boots and gloves like Kincos. Used the different methods, oven with just a pilot light, sunny window and hair dryer. The gloves tend to get hard and stiff in freezing temps. My hunch is that it is not as breathable as Nikwax. There is some good info somewhere that I found perhaps on Telemark Talk. I will document the process and post results on another thread.

 
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For general XCD information and equipment choices, for our region, I’ve found this video by the Catamount Trail Association to be most helpful.

 
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