jamesdeluxe
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2020
After three previous days skiing mountains that are to varying degrees unknown to people from outside Switzerland (or who don't ski in Central Switzerland), I drove up and over Julier Pass from Bivio into St. Moritz: from Hooterville to Park Avenue.
Two different people, a work colleague and a fellow ski-forum contributor, had been there separately in late January and raved about it with very few qualifiers: huge, varied, high elevation, excellent lift infrastructure, uncrowded slopes, sunny... on and on it went. The main reason I never even considered going there was the obvious one: cost. I figured that mere mortals couldn't afford it unless as part of a group package, which isn't my cup of tea.
While you *can* spend your entire life savings to ski here for a week, within two minutes of e-sleuthing, I found lodging that was completely reasonable along with an even bigger surprise -- when you purchase lift tickets at your hotel front desk, the price is an astounding $37/day. At first, I thought it was a misprint, but apparently the entire town has been doing this for a few years. Thus, between lift tickets, lodging (breakfast included), and access to the region's extensive bus and train network, my cost was approximately $130/day.
I awoke Monday morning to this view outside my window, looking out over Corviglia: on several levels basically St. Moritz's Breckenridge.
Unfortunately, while on the tram from the valley, a storm front with heavy snow and 30 mph wind gusts moved in. Visibility quickly went from challenging to a virtual whiteout by 11 am. After killing almost two hours in a mid-mountain restaurant, I skied the rest of the afternoon on the new snow; however, the continuing flat light and low cloud banks hid the gorgeous surrounding scenery. Thus, no need to post pix. So it goes in Alps above-treeline ski areas -- sometimes you get the bear; sometimes the bear gets you.
Tuesday was payback as it went bluebird with perfect mid-winter temps, the ideal day to hit what most people consider St. Moritz's premier area: Corvatsch. As always, the map is very condensed horizontally and doesn't convey the expanse:
I took a scenic half-hour bus ride past Silvaplaner Lake to the far looker's right, the Furtschellas sector, where you ride a tram to mid-mountain, then a HSQ further up:
At the top of that chair, you immediately see Dolomite-esque rock outcroppings along the ridgeline:
I spent an hour here warming up on 1,600-vert runs:
There are two lakes on view from this sector, Silvaplaner:
And Silser:
I moved skier's right to the Curtinella sector where I found a number of short but sweet powder lines with 6-8 inches from the previous day's storm in between the rocks. You had to choose your aspects to avoid wind-affected snow:
At 11:30, I stopped for an early lunch at the Rabguisa hut:
From Curtinella, there's a really nice groomer to the middle of the ski area and the scenic Hossa Hut:
Here in the Murtel sector were a pile of great offpiste lines, tracked and untracked. Both skied equally well due to low temps:
After doing four laps on that chair, I took the summit tram:
"Just Heavenly" (it sounds more poetic in German):
This advert cracked me up with the woman enjoying these new ergonomic socks:
Everything is direct-north facing and at this altitude, snow preservation is excellent.
Fuorcia Surlej hut:
Nut pie and coffee overlooking the only south-facing slope in the entire resort -- and the untracked skied superbly despite the blazing sun/lapped it three times:
At 3:30, I decided to head down to the village via the 2,800-vert valley run. Turn right here:
Spring silk:
Reaching the treeline:
You emerge right in the middle of town with a short skate past the Hotel Kempinski -- the closest I'll probably get to staying there -- and my bus stop followed by a three-minute ride to the hotel:
I hate using the term "Top Ten Day" because it's so overused, but this entire day was one long perfect moment.
Two different people, a work colleague and a fellow ski-forum contributor, had been there separately in late January and raved about it with very few qualifiers: huge, varied, high elevation, excellent lift infrastructure, uncrowded slopes, sunny... on and on it went. The main reason I never even considered going there was the obvious one: cost. I figured that mere mortals couldn't afford it unless as part of a group package, which isn't my cup of tea.
While you *can* spend your entire life savings to ski here for a week, within two minutes of e-sleuthing, I found lodging that was completely reasonable along with an even bigger surprise -- when you purchase lift tickets at your hotel front desk, the price is an astounding $37/day. At first, I thought it was a misprint, but apparently the entire town has been doing this for a few years. Thus, between lift tickets, lodging (breakfast included), and access to the region's extensive bus and train network, my cost was approximately $130/day.
I awoke Monday morning to this view outside my window, looking out over Corviglia: on several levels basically St. Moritz's Breckenridge.
Unfortunately, while on the tram from the valley, a storm front with heavy snow and 30 mph wind gusts moved in. Visibility quickly went from challenging to a virtual whiteout by 11 am. After killing almost two hours in a mid-mountain restaurant, I skied the rest of the afternoon on the new snow; however, the continuing flat light and low cloud banks hid the gorgeous surrounding scenery. Thus, no need to post pix. So it goes in Alps above-treeline ski areas -- sometimes you get the bear; sometimes the bear gets you.
Tuesday was payback as it went bluebird with perfect mid-winter temps, the ideal day to hit what most people consider St. Moritz's premier area: Corvatsch. As always, the map is very condensed horizontally and doesn't convey the expanse:
I took a scenic half-hour bus ride past Silvaplaner Lake to the far looker's right, the Furtschellas sector, where you ride a tram to mid-mountain, then a HSQ further up:
At the top of that chair, you immediately see Dolomite-esque rock outcroppings along the ridgeline:
I spent an hour here warming up on 1,600-vert runs:
There are two lakes on view from this sector, Silvaplaner:
And Silser:
I moved skier's right to the Curtinella sector where I found a number of short but sweet powder lines with 6-8 inches from the previous day's storm in between the rocks. You had to choose your aspects to avoid wind-affected snow:
At 11:30, I stopped for an early lunch at the Rabguisa hut:
From Curtinella, there's a really nice groomer to the middle of the ski area and the scenic Hossa Hut:
Here in the Murtel sector were a pile of great offpiste lines, tracked and untracked. Both skied equally well due to low temps:
After doing four laps on that chair, I took the summit tram:
"Just Heavenly" (it sounds more poetic in German):
This advert cracked me up with the woman enjoying these new ergonomic socks:
Everything is direct-north facing and at this altitude, snow preservation is excellent.
Fuorcia Surlej hut:
Nut pie and coffee overlooking the only south-facing slope in the entire resort -- and the untracked skied superbly despite the blazing sun/lapped it three times:
At 3:30, I decided to head down to the village via the 2,800-vert valley run. Turn right here:
Spring silk:
Reaching the treeline:
You emerge right in the middle of town with a short skate past the Hotel Kempinski -- the closest I'll probably get to staying there -- and my bus stop followed by a three-minute ride to the hotel:
I hate using the term "Top Ten Day" because it's so overused, but this entire day was one long perfect moment.
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