The Herb's Half - A Catskill Traverse (part 1 & 2)

APphysics

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Feb 5, 2024
Part 1

July 2nd, 2024. Around 5:10am, red taillights belonging to Crawler’s van come into view. Giving the truck more gas, I close the gap between the two vehicles. On the tight two-lane road, I rip past the van and gun it up the mile long hill. We are headed for the DEC parking lot that crowns the Devils Kitchen—the finish line for the Herb. Once there, we transfer Crawler’s bike to the truck and continue on to Prattsville with a short detour to cache food. What lies ahead is a seventy mile bike ride with high frequency gain that traverses the scenic Catskill Mountains.

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We ditch the truck at the Prattsville Town Park and begin our tour. The first ascent is only a mile or so into the route—Cozy Hollow Road. The climb lasts five miles and includes two main hills. A short reprieve between the two allow entire views of the countryside. Across the valley, Bearpen’s ridge breaks the horizon. In the foreground, Crawler takes photos of his favorite roadside attraction: the cow. The second climb is up the shoulder of Huntersfield Mountain. It is a stout double track known as Jim Cleveland Road. The crux of the climb is the last quarter at grades over 15%—steep enough to rear a bike with careless pedal strokes. Once on top, my watch buzzes, marking the first five mile lap—gaining about 1,800ft. We prepare for the cruiser ride back to the Schoharie.

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Jim Cleveland Road

The descent will take us to the village of Prattsville. The coast down provides constant views of obstacles that lie ahead. Up to and including this moment, the ride feels like any other ride—reality of length and hardship has yet to surface. In the grand scheme of things, the Herb has just begun and Huntersfield was only a warmup. The closer we get to the valley floor, the more Bearpen Mountain disappears beyond trees. All the previous elevation we achieved is now gone. The next climb is the longest and highest. This ascent boasts 2,500ft of gain over seven miles, which isn’t record smashing, but still a grind. The reward at the summit is the opportunity to say you pedaled one of the Catskill 3500s. The pedal up is taxing and starts by climbing out of the Schoharie Creek valley on paved roads. We come upon one demoralizing false summit and it drops us back down into a quaint valley. Once up the other side, the horizon reveals pastoral farmland backdropped by Bearpen. Joy floods my nervous system then quickly fades. There is no rewarding downhill to follow, only a slight right onto a dusty double track that keeps going up. This is Ski Run Road.

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It’s my third time biking up Ski Run Road. The two previous times had a few hike-a-bike sections. Crawler and I push on, pointing out where we stopped for water last year—all dried up. I think enviously of winter and how smooth this road is when groomed with snow. We slowly crank our way up the eastern side of Roundtop. Biking sections that were previously walked, I realize my legs are stronger than before. Soon enough the crux section is over, I am on the shoulder of Roundtop, elated with accomplishment. This is by far my best performance of the climb yet. I sit down, munch on banana chips and dried mangos, waiting for Crawler to round the corner. He is not far behind.

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Even though we are on the ridge, there is still climbing ahead. The ridge ride is an easy double track that traverses all the way to Bearpen. Surprisingly, the latter part is often wet with deep puddles. We arrive at the headwall of Bearpen—the last steep push right before the summit—another section I’ve aways walked the bike. Still feeling strong, I pedal through, fighting my way up loose Catskill chonk to the top. We take a break and look out over the valley. Huntersfield Mountain is off in the distance, marking the edge of Greene County. It looks like a dinky hill from our current roost. After the uphill slog, we are finally rewarded a dirt descent. Coming off Bearpen Mountain is an old fashion hoot. About two hours of hard labor will be erased in 12 minutes. We turn off the double track and head down the hikers’ trail. This section brings out the reason why I like heinous steeps: unadulterated technical downhill—mountain biking at its core. This trail is historically made for hiking which makes for a steep and rewarding learning curve on a bike. Bearpen’s trail is tight, muddy and fast. Quick attention to smooth lines pays off when riding a hard-tail bike. Once on the lower snowmobile trail, we bomb past the hunter’s cabin and beeline it down County 3 Road. We stop at our third watering hole, fill our bottles, eat some grub and continue to our next climb.

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Turning left onto Bouton Road and then a quick right onto Turk Hollow takes us 950ft up onto the saddle between South Vly and Sleeping Lion mountains. Then this dirt lane becomes Condon Hollow Road. The climb is a tougher one due to the poor condition of the road. For us, while conserving energy, most of it is hike-a-bike. This is the first time in the journey that stinging nettles bear their fierce leaves. On the way up, they are easily avoided and trodden upon, however, the descent is the opposite. If you thought hiking through nettles was bad, wait until they are lacerating your shins at 17 miles per hour. In July, they are at perfect height for maximum damage and there is no hiding. Our pace is slowed by multiple blowdowns, forcing us to dismount and fight our way through their tangled branches. With legs on fire from the siege of nettles, we execute the final turn within the trail. The last 3/10ths of a mile is a brutal flogging of thick nettles and maneuvering over baby-head sized rocks. We hit the stone road with yells of celebration and pain. The neglected DEC lot briefly becomes an infirmary as we pour water over our red legs and hold a safety meeting.

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Popping out onto South Beech Road is a pleasure after what was just endured. There’s a picturesque view of the Spruceton Valley and an excitingly fast ride down to get there. Spruceton Road is a long stretch that continuously gains elevation (1,450ft) over eight miles to Diamond Notch. We forego tempting libations at West Kill Brewery and decided to get to our provisions on Route 214 as quickly as possible.

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Diamond Notch, officially categorized as a primitive bike corridor, will be tackled next. Unlike the top and bottom sections, the middle of this climb is hard to ride due to large rocks. Around the lean-to, we hop onto our saddles and pedal to the crest. We glove up for one of the more exciting downhills of the route. The trail cuts into the steep notch on its eastern side. The path is narrow and exposed with steep scree above and below. While in the notch, you feel as though you are somewhere barren. Speed is gained as the trail widens. It is an entertaining descent with drops and loose rocks. A stream crossing comes up fast and we dismount to ford. The section after is slow and technical. Larger boulders need to be navigated with agility and care. Reaching Diamond Notch Road means that we are halfway through our demented scheme. The ascent up Route 214 into Stony Clove Notch is my mental crux. It is a tedious slog up boring blacktop. I swear I pass Notch Inn Road twice every time this section is traveled. After what seems to be hours, we reach the notch and coast down to our cache full of goodies.

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The creek crossing

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The Herb part 2

We spoil ourselves with PB&Js, beef jerky, smoothies and most importantly, energy drinks that are said to give you wings. Both of us lie on our backs in the cool shade, motionless, knowing that we have thirty more miles and four thousand feet left. The longer we sit idle, the more our muscles seize, along with our desire to continue. At this point last year, I was pretty torn up and fatigued. The only thing that kept me going was the thought of on-sighting the Herb and never having to do it again.

This time around, the cache was well placed and supplied. My body feels reenergized and trained for the endurance that is needed to finish. Packing up the cooler has me excited for the next half. We saddle up and move out.

On 23A, I hear a heart-wrenching sound behind me and look back to see Crawler—without missing a pedal stroke—hawking up more than a loogie. A moment later, I hear the sound again and turn to see his face drained of color. We stop at the intersection of Platte Clove and Ella Park Road. We’ve been here before. This is where we decided to bail last year. It was all too familiar. One road led seven miles straight back to the van and the other road climbs over Mink Hollow, down into Shady and then up the final climb to Overlook Mountain. The current crossroads is the point of no return. Once on the other side of Mink Hollow, the only options are to finish or phone a friend. Crawler is in no shape to finish, having thrown up twice. After expressing our gratitude towards one another, we parted ways.

Endurance activities are harder alone than with someone who can share the burden. When times are miserable, you can make each other laugh or have a conversation to pass the time. It was just me and the sound of rubber against pavement, the clicking of the chain and the swoosh of each pedal stroke. As I made my way up Elk Park Road, I thought about who could pick me up at the end. This helped pass time.

Mink Hollow is mostly climbed on pavement. Once at the trail, you can bike all the way up to the highest creek crossing. The hike-a-bike section is hard. It is a constant lifting and pushing your bike up and over large rocks. Luckily, it’s relatively short-lived. Once past the spring, the trail eases and you’re home free. The intersection of the Devils Path marks the top of the hill. Mink Hollow’s southern trail is the hardest and most technical of all the downhills. Microwave-sized boulders make for a balancey and slow descent. It’s a seasonal creek-bed, full of loose rocks and nettles. Picking the easiest way down the two and a half mile rugged trail puts a hurtin’ on my already beaten legs and tired mind. I take it slow and keep telling myself, “just don’t fall, just don’t fall”. I cross the hollow’s actual creek. From here, the trail flattens out and becomes a different kind of struggle: lots of pedaling and dismounting around mud, boulders and saplings. The last stream crossing is a major sign of relief. It’s an easy pedal on tight, smooth trail until the parking lot. On the southern side of Mink Hollow Road, with the hardest descent completed, the Herb begins to feel feasible. The break before the final climb is short but rejuvenating.

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At the base of Macdaniel Road, I stop at the Saw Kill to refill water and snack. Sitting on a rock in the middle of the stream, I think, “this is it, the final climb”. After this, it’s downhill to the finish. Two years in the making and only 2,000ft in four miles to the crest that seals the deal.

I use Macdaniel Road as a trainer climb so I know its nature well. It’s a steep but peaceful ride with inspiring views of Indian Head and Twin mountains. As the road passes by the Magic Meadow parking lot, it eases and reveals a kinder side. Prayer flags line the trees just off the road—a peaceful sight for any mountain troll. Once at the Overlook trailhead, I text Crawler, hoping he’s passed out in his van instead of driving home. Unfortunately, it’s the latter, but he did stash my pack of food and clothes in the woods. I call my mom and ask if she can pick me up in about two hours. With the arrangements made, I set off on the final climb.

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Overlook’s fire road is also often traveled for me as a trainer. Still, its false summit gets me every time. The dull road lets my mind wander and I can never remember if “that turn” was passed or not. With legs of rubber, it’s a slow and cumbersome pedal up the fire road. At this evening hour, most traffic is heading down. They all look well-kept and proper compared to my muddy, disheveled self—just a sweaty sack of meat on two wheels that has traveled sixty-five miles so far. Never have I ever related so much to the old burnt-out hotel that stands alone atop this mountain; a proud sight, yet totally useless.

I collapse on a smooth rock at the base of the intersection sign for Echo Lake. On any other day, the summit ride to the Overlook fire tower would be a must. But today, this signage marks the end of the uphill journey. I aim the bike down trail towards the Devils Kitchen. Much of the beginning is heavy Catskill chonk. After a while the trail smooths out and becomes a delight. Once past the trail for Echo Lake, there are some small gains. Mountain laurel crowds the way and then backs off once at Codfish Point. There is no energy for vistas. Dusk is creeping in and under the tree canopy light fades fast. The bridge is in sight and the lean-to is just after. No need to filter water anymore—only a little bit further. The feeling of happiness and accomplishment overwhelms me. My mind fades into white noise. Time goes by quickly and then all of a sudden the parking lot jumps into view. The Herb is finished—it’s been completed. I hop my sore butt off the saddle one last time. My stashed pack is found. The victory pizza, once inside, is now ravenously eaten while I kick off my shoes and socks. Flip-flops comfort my stiff feet. I sit there grinning, eventually lying back on a heap of stone, stunned. I lay there motionless and numb waiting for my ride. My eyes stare into treetops and fireflies work their magic as night takes over.

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In a total of 12 hours, 51 minutes and 38 seconds, I traveled 71 miles and climbed 11,969 feet. These numbers rival many well-known organized races and their extreme stats. The tour lived up to its name and gave its creators a good “what for”.


Below: the making of a herb 2023
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The Route
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You sir, are one sick puppy. Kudos to Crawler for leaving it all on the floor, literally. I would be in the hospital trying to ride a bike through Diamond Notch never mind the rest of it. DIY adventures have that added element of uncertainty that can be exciting or downright scary. Sometimes it’s both at the same time. Nice job dreaming, planning and attempting such a beautiful route. Sub 13 hour OKT (Only Known Time) sets a stout bar for those who dare. The fact that you came back to crush it after last year’s bail is a testament to your strength and perseverance. This is living large!
 
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You sir, are one sick puppy. Kudos to Crawler for leaving it all on the floor, literally. I would be in the hospital trying to ride a bike through Diamond Notch never mind the rest of it. DIY adventures have that added element of uncertainty that can be exciting or downright scary. Sometimes it’s both at the same time. Nice job dreaming, planning and attempting such a beautiful route. Sub 13 hour OKT (Only Known Time) sets a stout bar for those who dare. The fact that you came back to crush it after last year’s bail is a testament to your strength and perseverance. This is living large!
thanks for the kind words! it was very hard to walk away from it last year. the approach then was geared more towards sight unseen. this year, I created two trainers for east and west sections. they definitely helped put the route in a smaller purview. it’s a great experience to have a brainchild come to life—and have it fight back! never had that happen before. Crawler is a solid dude for death marches 😂 first call, always. a trudge master.
 
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